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#21 kotmj

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Posted 10 November 2011 - 02:55 PM

Joe Hemrajani or something like that is pretty well known for shirts. There is also Ascot Chang.

I would not do Jantzen, sounds like the HK version of decatano.

#22 terrorsquad

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Posted 10 November 2011 - 03:00 PM

why don't you try Peter Lee in Hong Kong?I've heard good things about him...

#23 terrorsquad

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 08:54 PM

Cancer (i find your name very disturbing, sorry), you can order shirting fabric from Acorn Fabrics in the UK.If you want the price list, PM me and I will send it to you. Another alternative is to hunt for it on SF, I've seen some beautiful Alumo, Thomas Mason and Grandi & Rubinelli shirt fabric on sale there by members of the forum.

#24 andrew

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 09:23 PM

terror can you PM me the price list? Thanks.

#25 Zinzan

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 02:26 AM

Hi Guys, kudos to u guys on very good forum. My experiences in bespoke are amateurish at most. I thought i knew where the good tailors in KL. but what i never knew the attention to detail that you guys pore into the shirt.and the suits. Well prior to this, i thought wardrobe was the best tailor in town. They've some good work for me and i really liked it. I know u guys think otherwise I am also guilty of buying designer suits ie Hugo Boss..But i'm really keen to learn how to make a good bespoke suit and buying beautiful bespoke shoes like vass. Neways nice to meet you guys

#26 joonian

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 02:44 AM

Terrorsquad, can you pass me the price list too?

#27 amateursarto

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:37 AM

I make dress shirts for myself and for others. My advice would be to get a well fitted draft and go from there. If you are looking to buy cloth, there is Rosen & Chaddick, (which sells Thomas Mason, Alumo, Canclini, etc) also there is Tip Top Fabrics in NYC which sells cloths purchased from designers and there lines are quite good, in Italy try Teca Tessuti, and there are a few companies that sell online as well. Hwa Seng textiles, and others. All of the ones I've listed sell premium cloth; American Sember in NYC sells Thomas Mason cloth, but only to those who have a wholesale account. I have both the Silver Line and the Gold Line books, which are as good as advertised. I will post links to two Italian shirting sources, but their costs might be prohibitive to some, though they are quite good.

http://www.camiceriapiccolo.com/

#28 joonian

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 11:48 AM

@Amateursarto what do you charge and where are you based? Any pics of your work? Thanks!

#29 Zinzan

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 12:10 PM

Terrorsquad, appreciate if you could PM me as well. Cheers

#30 kotmj

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 08:19 PM

I make dress shirts for myself and for others. My advice would be to get a well fitted draft and go from there. If you are looking to buy cloth, there is Rosen & Chaddick, (which sells Thomas Mason, Alumo, Canclini, etc) also there is Tip Top Fabrics in NYC which sells cloths purchased from designers and there lines are quite good, in Italy try Teca Tessuti, and there are a few companies that sell online as well. Hwa Seng textiles, and others. All of the ones I've listed sell premium cloth; American Sember in NYC sells Thomas Mason cloth, but only to those who have a wholesale account. I have both the Silver Line and the Gold Line books, which are as good as advertised. I will post links to two Italian shirting sources, but their costs might be prohibitive to some, though they are quite good.

http://www.camiceriapiccolo.com/

Just had a look at Piccolo's price list, wow, just wow. So expensive. Amateursarto, do you also do non-fused collars and cuffs?

#31 Cancer

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 11:03 PM

I really appreciate the offer but, I'm not ready to go through the hassle to buy my own cloths yet, I mean I can't tell between workmanship, good cloth is just going to be wasted on me. I normally pay about RM320 for one shirt, what can having my own cloth save money? Joe will sew me a Thomas Mason shirt for 'bout RM730.

#32 terrorsquad

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 11:54 PM

RM730??wow,that's really2 pricey...I expect for that price, your using the Thomas Mason Gold Line correct?

#33 amateursarto

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 03:34 AM

Just throwin those sources out there, cancer (i agree with TS about your name, btw, LOL). The cloths are expensive, but once they are made up, the shirts are great. I have a few made up from 2 ply 170's (couple years old) and they still feel like silk and have no pillilng or fuzzing present on the surface of the cloth. TS, I do fuse some of the collars and cuffs I make; mostly when I want that extra firmness only fusing can provide. I also use it on shirts I make for others since they are accustomed to that and as a result prefer it. When it comes to fusing, it's all about using professional grade fusible collar interlining and using a heat transfer press or a clamshell steam press or dry press to set the fusing. If done according to manufacturer's specs, you can get a few years wear out of fused collars and cuffs. I have shirts that were made in 1998 that have no delineation at all on them. But you have to use the right stuff. BTW, gshen's tumblr page is quite impressive. Maybe this ought to go in the other thread, but where are such exquisite wools and silks sourced from? As someone who makes ties and pochettes, bows, etc. I appreciate the quality and workmanship in gshen's offerings. Btw, how much is 730 RM in US dollars? (can't get my phone to cooperate)...


#34 Guest_amateursarto_*

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 01:52 PM

joonian,
i just saw your post. sorry about that! where i am in the world may prove to be more of an obstacle than what i charge. i am in the midwest of the united states, in st. louis, mo usa to be exact. i'm not too far from chicago, illinois (280 miles, 4 1/2 hour car trip). i charge 470 MYR ($150 USD, that price doesn't include the cloth since most of my clients bring their own cloth to me). I can provide cloth to fit any budget. I have a one time pattern drafting fee (235 MYR, $75 which is waived if the client commissions at least two shirts). I hate to charge the pattern drafting fee, but there is a lot of work in drafting a shirt pattern. Right now my patterns are hand cut, though in the future I will probably offer a computer drawn pattern draft for less money. If interested joonian, i can post pics. If not, I can understand that as well.

#35 joonian

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 02:25 PM

Question: Why do non-fused collars and cuffs cost more at a tailor? To my rather simple mind, I would have thought they would be cheaper? Is the fusing replaced by the equivalent of a canvas, like in a coat?

#36 kotmj

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 03:36 PM

The cotton interlining is quite expensive and difficult to source. Also, it is more difficult to sew a collar where the interlining can shift. For this reason there is a type of sew-on interlining which has a water-soluble glue. You fuse it to the collar with an iron and sew as usual. The interlining defuses completely with the first laundering.

#37 amateursarto

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 02:29 AM

To be honest, there is a minimal difference in cost to make a non fused vs fused collar. I have no problem sourcing cotton collar lining here in the US. Also, I've never used the lining that kotmj speaks of, and I would suspect that the water soluble feature is added to increase the cost of the interlining. Any good shirt maker can sew a collar or cuff w/o that stuff. When I make non fused collars I apply a light dab of water soluble glue stick to the collar points, one at center back and one just opposite of each collar point. That's a total 5 light dabs of glue stick and nothing else. After sewing, the glue stick is usually gone as a result of pressing the collar after spritzing it with water. If anyone is embarking upon making a shirt and gets to collar making, I recommend you try it. kotmj, have you begun to make dress shirts in your apprenticeship? if so, is that what the sifu does, as you stated above?

#38 kotmj

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 08:25 PM

Amateursarto, I hope to eventually get to shirtmaking, but I think I'll just draft them. Here in Malaysia we have many independent shirtmaking seamstresses and shirtmaking factories. I have no idea how they make a living. The factories employ mostly Bangladeshi workers. The home-based seamstresses also take care of other people's babies on the side.

I had my tailor make me a non-fused collar before, and it was the oddest thing he has ever heard. He spent half an hour trying to convince me that it is a bad idea.

He ended up having to sew the shirt himself, because we all know you cannot actually outsource or delegate something you cannot yourself make. It will just end in disaster. He said it took him 3 hours.

The shirt was magnificent.

With the second shirt, he outsourced the sewing. The collar was done badly. The third shirt was better. However, I asked him to use two plies of interlining, and he did -- except it was two plies for the collar leaf and only one ply for the collar band. The collar leaf is too heavy for the collar band to hold up, so that shirt has a droopy collar.

#39 amateursarto

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 10:38 PM

Yeah, it's a trial and error process finding what works best for you. I made fused collars and cuffs exclusively early on, but without the right equipment and supplies it was hit and miss. Now, having sourced the right stuff, I have smooth, firm collars that last anywhere from 2 to 4 yrs., depending on how often they are washed. What really causes the fusing to bubble and separate is drying the shirt in a dryer. The change from wet to dry as well as moderate to high heat causes the cotton interlining and separate. So if someone has a really nice fused shirt, I suggest that it be washed and air dried. And always iron the shirt using water, never dry. Also, avoiding starch prolongs the life of a shirt, especially white ones, since starch yellows the fibres of the shirt.

As for non fused collars, it does take some skill to make one. The key is to ensure that the interlining is secured to the outer cloth reasonably well before sewing. The same rules of sewing a fused collars then apply. If any of you guys would like to get an inside view of the shirtmaking process, I encourage you to take a look at the following website: http://www.mikemaldonado.com/. It's geared toward aspiring shirtmakers, but the education is good for all. Kotmj, there is a pattern drafting course there as well. It costs $300 (USD), but worth it.

#40 kotmj

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:56 PM

You asked about fabrics which could potentially be interesting for ties. The only sort of fabric that is indigenous here is batik. It's popular for making into ceremonial shirts. Have a look:

http://www.noor-arfa.com.my/




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