Posted 12 November 2011 - 08:54 PM
Posted 13 November 2011 - 02:26 AM
Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:37 AM
Posted 14 November 2011 - 08:19 PM
Just had a look at Piccolo's price list, wow, just wow. So expensive. Amateursarto, do you also do non-fused collars and cuffs?
I make dress shirts for myself and for others. My advice would be to get a well fitted draft and go from there. If you are looking to buy cloth, there is Rosen & Chaddick, (which sells Thomas Mason, Alumo, Canclini, etc) also there is Tip Top Fabrics in NYC which sells cloths purchased from designers and there lines are quite good, in Italy try Teca Tessuti, and there are a few companies that sell online as well. Hwa Seng textiles, and others. All of the ones I've listed sell premium cloth; American Sember in NYC sells Thomas Mason cloth, but only to those who have a wholesale account. I have both the Silver Line and the Gold Line books, which are as good as advertised. I will post links to two Italian shirting sources, but their costs might be prohibitive to some, though they are quite good.
Posted 14 November 2011 - 11:03 PM
Posted 15 November 2011 - 03:34 AM
Posted 15 November 2011 - 01:52 PM
i just saw your post. sorry about that! where i am in the world may prove to be more of an obstacle than what i charge. i am in the midwest of the united states, in st. louis, mo usa to be exact. i'm not too far from chicago, illinois (280 miles, 4 1/2 hour car trip). i charge 470 MYR ($150 USD, that price doesn't include the cloth since most of my clients bring their own cloth to me). I can provide cloth to fit any budget. I have a one time pattern drafting fee (235 MYR, $75 which is waived if the client commissions at least two shirts). I hate to charge the pattern drafting fee, but there is a lot of work in drafting a shirt pattern. Right now my patterns are hand cut, though in the future I will probably offer a computer drawn pattern draft for less money. If interested joonian, i can post pics. If not, I can understand that as well.
Posted 15 November 2011 - 03:36 PM
Posted 16 November 2011 - 02:29 AM
Posted 16 November 2011 - 08:25 PM
I had my tailor make me a non-fused collar before, and it was the oddest thing he has ever heard. He spent half an hour trying to convince me that it is a bad idea.
He ended up having to sew the shirt himself, because we all know you cannot actually outsource or delegate something you cannot yourself make. It will just end in disaster. He said it took him 3 hours.
The shirt was magnificent.
With the second shirt, he outsourced the sewing. The collar was done badly. The third shirt was better. However, I asked him to use two plies of interlining, and he did -- except it was two plies for the collar leaf and only one ply for the collar band. The collar leaf is too heavy for the collar band to hold up, so that shirt has a droopy collar.
Posted 16 November 2011 - 10:38 PM
As for non fused collars, it does take some skill to make one. The key is to ensure that the interlining is secured to the outer cloth reasonably well before sewing. The same rules of sewing a fused collars then apply. If any of you guys would like to get an inside view of the shirtmaking process, I encourage you to take a look at the following website: http://www.mikemaldonado.com/. It's geared toward aspiring shirtmakers, but the education is good for all. Kotmj, there is a pattern drafting course there as well. It costs $300 (USD), but worth it.
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