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#41 joonian

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 02:16 AM

I need to get a couple of decent dress shirts made. Are there any shirtmakers you gents recommend besides Ah Loke? How are his spread collars? Cutaways?

And does he have shirting in house? I'm not that picky about shirting. Just looking for a nice soft poplin in blue and/or white.

#42 kotmj

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 10:46 PM

AL does have bolts of shirting. A few months back he used up his best vintage pale blue poplin. He once offered it to me when I first got to know him at what is retrospectively a great price but I was too noob back then to take it. I think he was quite sorry himself to see it gone.

No doubt he has a new bolt of pale blue. He also has a certain bolt of "non-iron" white poplin that he pushes hard on customers.

Wardrobe is the distributor of Alumo in Malaysia. Very sexy fabric. Their Bangla mastertailors should do a good job.

#43 terrorsquad

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 11:54 AM

Gshen has some nice alumo and Thomas mason shirting fabrics :

https://picasaweb.go...intageShirtings

I'm actually buying a few lengths from him this weekend.

#44 geno

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:22 PM

If you guys were in Singapore, which would be your go-to tailor for shirts?

#45 terrorsquad

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:39 PM

Iris, only because that's the only place I know and I've heard good things about it.

#46 kotmj

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 01:05 PM

I was told shirtmaking is a lost art in SG.

#47 joonian

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 03:00 PM

@Terror I've bought two lengths of Thomas Mason Silverline from him in the past. Made up by Iris, naturally. Cost quite a bit in the end and I'm not much of a shirt connoisseur so I'm looking for something more affordable.

#48 terrorsquad

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:16 PM

How Long do you guys think I would need to soak the cotton Thomas Mason fabric in cold water before rinsing it?the reason is I want to pre shrink it before sending it to ALT to be made into a shirt.

#49 kotmj

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:32 PM

I have an elaborate pre-shrinking routine. Not sure if every step is necessary.

1. Have the cut edges serged in a shop. This is to prevent fraying.
2. Launder once, which by definition means at least an overnight soak.
3. Soak in tap water 24 hours or more.
4. Spin dry.
5. Iron from damp to dry while preserving grain.

Step 5 is essential.

#50 terrorsquad

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 08:35 PM

thats fantastic.would do it tonight, thanks kotmj!

#51 kotmj

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 04:19 AM

Shirt by Liverano. Notice how tiny the stitches are and the hand-sewn buttonhole!
Posted Image

#52 andrew

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 09:02 PM

I am bored of solid shirts! I want to go next level!

#53 amateursarto

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 08:29 AM

TS,
Shrinkage is supposed to be limited to 2% according to industry standards. Cotton shirting really only needs to be soaked in cold water about 30 minutes, laid out to dry on a clothes line or in some other way and after that it's ready for the needle. The TM cloth (gold and silver lines) are great. I have both books and purchase from American Sember in NYC. If anyone ever wants a pic of a specific cloth let me know.

Edit: of course, the cloth needs to be iron or even better "pressed" after soaking in cold water. The reason I recommend pressing or ironing after allowing the shirting to dry is because when wet it's more susceptible to stretching. After drying, the yarn is tighter, and will withstand pressing or ironing's inherent stretching. A caveat to that is to press or iron after spritzing with water or use a steam iron. Never press or iron without a misting of water, just don't iron while saturated with water as when after soaking. David Page Coffin, (author of the book, Shirt Making), advocates ironing yardage while wet, but on this point I disagree with him.

AS

#54 terrorsquad

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 12:19 PM

amateursarto, I'm interested in the current price of the gold line and the silver line.Can you give an estimate how much it currently costs per meter for each line mentioned?would really appreciate it.

And do you have access to other books such as Alumo?

#55 amateursarto

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 07:10 AM

TS,
I haven't ordered TM in more than a year, so I'll have to email and find out. But at last check, it was $ 28 - $ 30 per yd. for Silver and a few dollars more for Gold. I will find out and let you know. I am in the process of receiving the Pronto book from Grandi and Rubinelli. I have the books from Acorn and a few books from lesser known and lesser quality cloth mills. In all, I have a large library of cloths but have directed more of my attention as of late to tailoring suits. Again, if you guys ever want to see a specific swatch or color/pattern, let me know. By the way, I hear Grandi and Rubinelli have some fantastic stuff. Whenever I get the book, I will let those interested know what they've got. Alumo is difficult to source, or at least, they never return my emails.

AS

#56 kotmj

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 11:08 PM

I once wrote to Alumo -- in German to establish better rapport since they are in the German-speaking part of Switzerland -- and a woman with the surname of the founding family replied. Esssentially, she said she cannot sell me cut lengths, that I have to source them from the boss of Wardrobe, that I am at his mercy and have to pay the full markups of everyone involved.

However, she said that if I have any problems whatsoever sourcing them from Wardrobe I am to write to her.

#57 amateursarto

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 12:42 PM

I am going to receive the more recent cloths from the TM Silverline "purple" book. I will also update about the prices.

#58 andrew

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 12:16 AM

terror, go and buy this Kiton shirt. http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2156144

#59 kotmj

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 12:16 AM

Received some sew-in shirt interlining, 100% cotton from theliningcompany. This is a stiff yet relatively thin cotton. Who would have thought cotton can have so much body of its own? Really excited to have this used in my shirts after I've given it a real proper pre-shrinking.

#60 kotmj

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 02:51 PM

I really like this
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