Posted 28 November 2011 - 02:16 AM
And does he have shirting in house? I'm not that picky about shirting. Just looking for a nice soft poplin in blue and/or white.
Posted 28 November 2011 - 10:46 PM
No doubt he has a new bolt of pale blue. He also has a certain bolt of "non-iron" white poplin that he pushes hard on customers.
Wardrobe is the distributor of Alumo in Malaysia. Very sexy fabric. Their Bangla mastertailors should do a good job.
Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:32 PM
1. Have the cut edges serged in a shop. This is to prevent fraying.
2. Launder once, which by definition means at least an overnight soak.
3. Soak in tap water 24 hours or more.
4. Spin dry.
5. Iron from damp to dry while preserving grain.
Step 5 is essential.
Posted 13 December 2011 - 08:29 AM
Shrinkage is supposed to be limited to 2% according to industry standards. Cotton shirting really only needs to be soaked in cold water about 30 minutes, laid out to dry on a clothes line or in some other way and after that it's ready for the needle. The TM cloth (gold and silver lines) are great. I have both books and purchase from American Sember in NYC. If anyone ever wants a pic of a specific cloth let me know.
Edit: of course, the cloth needs to be iron or even better "pressed" after soaking in cold water. The reason I recommend pressing or ironing after allowing the shirting to dry is because when wet it's more susceptible to stretching. After drying, the yarn is tighter, and will withstand pressing or ironing's inherent stretching. A caveat to that is to press or iron after spritzing with water or use a steam iron. Never press or iron without a misting of water, just don't iron while saturated with water as when after soaking. David Page Coffin, (author of the book, Shirt Making), advocates ironing yardage while wet, but on this point I disagree with him.
Posted 13 December 2011 - 12:19 PM
And do you have access to other books such as Alumo?
Posted 14 December 2011 - 07:10 AM
I haven't ordered TM in more than a year, so I'll have to email and find out. But at last check, it was $ 28 - $ 30 per yd. for Silver and a few dollars more for Gold. I will find out and let you know. I am in the process of receiving the Pronto book from Grandi and Rubinelli. I have the books from Acorn and a few books from lesser known and lesser quality cloth mills. In all, I have a large library of cloths but have directed more of my attention as of late to tailoring suits. Again, if you guys ever want to see a specific swatch or color/pattern, let me know. By the way, I hear Grandi and Rubinelli have some fantastic stuff. Whenever I get the book, I will let those interested know what they've got. Alumo is difficult to source, or at least, they never return my emails.
Posted 14 December 2011 - 11:08 PM
However, she said that if I have any problems whatsoever sourcing them from Wardrobe I am to write to her.
Posted 22 December 2011 - 12:16 AM
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