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kotmj

Budget tailoring

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When I was a student not that many years ago, the prices for the good stuff seemed improbable. Did people really pay RM350 for a tie? RM4K for a suit? It seemed like another world altogether to me.

 

I felt betrayed when a tailor who earlier had quoted me RM70 for a long sleeve shirt wanted RM10 more because I specified high stitch density, felled seams, and hand tacked buttons. (I hope he has forgiven me.) I spent too much time at places like Kamdar and Nagoya trying too see if there were any overlooked fabrics.

 

When I first had trousers made, I remember demanding a 10 ringgit discount. The tailor refused, and when I insisted, he said he would if I am willing to have it unlined because the lining costs some money. Because I provided my own cloth, he did not make any money off the cloth markup. On top of that, the price he quoted me was 20% lower than market rate. And I had the petulance to insist on a RM10 discount on top of this. Talk about squeezing till the pips pop out. Fortunately in this case, I am sure he has forgiven me since this tailor went on to become a forum favourite.

 

This thread is to discuss tailor-made garments done on a budget. I imagine this is where those who are new to tailored clothes would want to post. No questions are too noob in this thread. The cheaper the better, etc.

 

Don’t worry about being mired at the beginner level. Luxury has a rachet effect – once you have gone one rachet up, it becomes impossible to go one rachet down without feeling a strong erosion in your standard of living. You will gradually, with rising income and connoiseurship, move up the luxury ladder till RM350 for a tie is the norm and you feel lucky your latest suit only costs RM4K.

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This is a great thread. I think I've saved up quite a fair bit (including some weeks of pure ramen) to afford the Dugdales that is still with AL today. Heck, I think I was working on double shifts in the lab, starts at 0300 and finish at 2100. And to top that up, I had to write abstracts for that extra moo. So maybe I took the big leap and went for a dugdales for my first suit. But I still think its worth every penny. Glad I never spewed cash on G2000 suits. And Im still waiting for my suit from AL.

 

Until today, most of the tailoring terms are still really new to me. Heck, when kotmj commented on my fittings with AL, I was clueless to my feet what he meant by opening up the upper seam, re do the lapels, so imagine me trying to tell AL. I think getting feedback about a suit commission is something that you can never get anywhere else, particularly from big timers like kotmj, TS, joonian etc. SF is a little to messy to ask for comments imo.

 

Shoe wise, I might have moved a step up since the first time I got my square toe designer label black shoes, courtesy of a buddy of mine who used to work in a departmental store. Today, I wear round toes. I think this is a great learning experience for myself as well. I like the idea of saving your bum up for something that is pricey. Not trying to be that alpha male Hermes kid tho :P...So i hereby officially call myself "the keen newbie".

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I wouldn't call Dugdale + full canvassing at ALT budget tailoring. My idea of budget tailoring is a RM700 Groupon deal (everything included). A wool-polyester mix with a third tier tailor is budget tailoring. RM160/shirt (everything included) is budget tailoring.

 

So I'll be seeing you in the regular threads.

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Great stuff for one's like my self coming out of Uni soon. I was talking to AL that day and was asking about his house shirt cotton e.g why some are more expensive and how are they better. He could only say that they are softer,

 

what makes shirting fabric good?I know its hard to determinate such without experiences but what does one look out for.

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great idea. what cheapo material would you guys recommend for trousers?

 

I buy and make stuff on a pretty tight budget too. I have trouble getting OTR trousers so I have a bunch made at Iris Tailor and my alterations tailor/seamstress, also in Singapore. I just use their house cotton twills. Most places will have a book of this stuff in multiple colours with a questionable Italian-looking word on the cover.

 

Many men's tailors, however, won't have a book of cheap cotton twills. In that case, you can try seamstresses or tailors that make women's garments. Have them copy something for you.

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great idea. what cheapo material would you guys recommend for trousers?

I buy short lengths from the usual fabric sellers on ebay. These are the bits of cloth at the end of the bolt that are not enough for a suit or a jacket, usually around 1.2 to 1.5 meters. Hwa Seng in Singapore also sells many of these short lengths. They are quite cheap, about 10 GBP before shipping.

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Great stuff for one's like my self coming out of Uni soon. I was talking to AL that day and was asking about his house shirt cotton e.g why some are more expensive and how are they better. He could only say that they are softer,

 

what makes shirting fabric good?I know its hard to determinate such without experiences but what does one look out for.

 

good shirting shouldn't pill or fuzz excessively (contrary to what most shirting mills will say, all shirting with repeated laundering, will over time, pill and fuzz), and it should feel soft to the touch. much of it even feels silky. it can have an understated, yet discernable luster to it as well. it doesn't have to break the bank either. i recently bought some stuff that's 2x2 170's (comparable to supima or vintage Sea Island cotton) and it only cost $15 per yd (shipping included). to be honest, Bkt, with the Internet and google (along with other search engines), stuff get's pumped up as being good, when really, it's at best, debatable. really, if you like it, that's what should matter. don't let the random postings of me or anybody else, determine what you think is good. educate yourself, develop your own tastes and suit yourself; literally. i understand nobody wants to pay through the nose for inferior cloth, but places like AAAC as well as SF, and potentially this forum, really only serve to do just what I mentioned above: anoint one cloth or brand, when it's all a matter or personal taste. above all else, educate yourself, independent of other's opinions, set a price point, and go with what you like. interestingly, the word "fabric" is generally used by home sewers; in the ten years or so that i've been sewing semi professionally, i've always heard the term woolens, shirting, silks, etc used or just simply cloth. i always stood out like a sour thumb when i said "fabric". now people assume i am a full time industry pro, in large part, because of what i say.

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1 meter is enough for a waistcoat. Unless you're a midget it is not enough for full length trousers though it's good for 3/4 length ones and shorts. It can also be made into a cushion cover. Trousers start at 1.2 meters, a blazer 1.8 - 2.0 meters.

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1 meter is enough for a waistcoat. Unless you're a midget it is not enough for full length trousers though it's good for 3/4 length ones and shorts. It can also be made into a cushion cover. Trousers start at 1.2 meters, a blazer 1.8 - 2.0 meters.

 

+1. I am about 1.68 m tall, and I usually set aside 1.3 m for trousers (to be on safe side). But I know I could get away with 1.2 m.

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Don't listen to Amateursarto. He's an amateur, after all. All your garments and footwear must be Kerbau-approved.

 

 

That username was created to show my self deprecating humor. :) Don't let it fool you, joonian. ;) If the kerbau is subsidizing a person's wardrobe budget, then it can be kerbau approved. :rolleyes:

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I beg to differ. Members wishing to call their outfits Kerbau approved should in fact pay a small fee for the privilege. But there is a 12 month grace period from the fouding of the forum, so it is free for now.

 

(null)

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I beg to differ. Members wishing to call their outfits Kerbau approved should in fact pay a small fee for the privilege. But there is a 12 month grace period from the fouding of the forum, so it is free for now.

 

(null)

you sound just like the zombies/disciples on AAAC and SF. the one thing about Film Noir Buff that i have always liked is that he thinks for himself and encourages, at times, chides others to do so. but alas, people still want others to think and decide for them...

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