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Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

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Some interesting tips to determine whether a cloth is of good quality or not:

 

 

If you want to check if the fabric contains the fibers named on the label(for example 100% pure new wool) here is a trick I learned as a tailor:

 

Pick some fibers of the cloth and burn them. You won't be able to distinguish between wool and cashmere, but you can find out, if it's pure wool and/or hair(like cashmere) cloth or mixed with synthetics.

Burned wool smells like burned hair or horn, it doesn't burn for long, in fact it only glows and you can rub the remnants between your fingers to black ash. If there are synthetics in the cloth, it will smell of burned plastic and the remnants will be hard like melted plastic.

Viscose(used for lining), cotton and linen burn and smell like paper.

 

Another trick is to hold the cloth with both hands, stretch it over both thumbs and move them outwards. If you can move the threads, it's not a good quality fabric. You might be able to deform the softer cloths, but the weave should not open.

Grab the material with your hand and press it for a few seconds in your fist. A good material will almost completely jump back to it's original shape, leaving only a few creases. If the creases stay it's not good(linen and cotton are an exception here).

Basically you should go for pure natural fiber cloths, best with a selvage telling chosen material and the mill's name. Top class cloths never contain synthetics.

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Thoughts on this design?

 

p1020010rv2.jpg

 

p1020013oq9.jpg

 

I think it will make for a very unique sports coat for those of us who already have quite a few staples in our wardrobe. Personally, I will be after a navy with a nice chalk overcheck.

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What's on the drawing board, ts? Planning to do up a new suit/SC? Or bringing in a new range of books?

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Ah. In that case, I preferred the earlier proposed kerbau cloth 2 over this. Regardless, perhaps you can list a few examples and put it to a vote?

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A long, long time ago, before thekerbau was even so much as an idea, when shoes were English not Majorcan, when Lesser was an obscure quaint English brand not something sitting in the closets of dozens of young Asians and when the cloth baron was still... well anyway, in February 2011 Canali had this amazing mid grey POW with navy overcheck in their Pavilion shop.

 

P2150392.jpg

 

P2150393.jpg

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Actually, the Cloth Club of London Lounge had made up something similar. Though about it but not sure everyone will go for it. What do u guys think? It is a gorgeous design and I have not seen it in any of the swatch books I have.

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This is an example of the work done on LL. However, its a tweed.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelondonlounge/5467983395/sizes/m/in/photostream/

 

Another beautifull example but not sure whether it will suitable on a worsted

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelondonlounge/5396468174/in/photostream

 

Another gorgeous one

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelondonlounge/5876113789/in/photostream

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I really like the Agnelli Flannel (2nd photo above). In fact, it is something that I have been looking for, perhaps in a slightly lighter weight of about 10-11 oz.

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Those are some nice cloths! Personally I find the third picture titled "Eden in Paris" most appealing - the blue checks appear to be a shade darker than what I've seen on mid-grays in the past, making the cloth appear to have more gravitas. Who's it made by?

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P2150393.jpg

 

If this becomes kerbau cloth 2, this will be a 3 piece for me.

 

I'll pair it with a white shirt, navy grenadine or satin tie, white PS, and dark brown monkstraps.

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Kerbau cloth 2 is just the project name. We need to find a proper name for it. If the mid grey is reflective of the tarmac grey of the city, the navy could be seen as azure, and the cloth could be christened "Teluk Cempedak in KL".

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"Teluk Cempedak in KL".

 

I will do everything possible to not have this name on the selvedge of the cloth. :D

 

But your right. We need a name so it can be printed on the selvedge.

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^You have no idea how hard I laughed.

 

It is almost forgotten now, what a contrast the Twin Towers were to the KL cityscape of the 90's. The standard of architecture in the city was abjectly low. Into this ugly city they planted a building of unimaginable design sophistication. "A diamond in the city" was the parti. It has an aesthetic that is improbable to have been conceived by a mere human. Adjacent to it is the best ever public park in KL, designed by the wife of the architect.

 

To understand how utterly superlative it was to the buildings which surrounded it, look at the Public Bank Tower opposite it. A conception like the Public Bank Tower is no longer done in the city today. Something like that is only possible when the entire city was populated with buildings by wretchedly unimaginative local architects. In fact I am surprised they did not put a "wisma" into its name. The Twin Towers really upped the expectations for design quality.

 

I propose we name the new kerbau cloth the Pelli POW, in honour of Cesar Pelli, the architect of the Twin Towers.

 

The Pelli POW, like the twin cathedrals to international business, is all about business. But it is not a usual business suiting, the sort that Hugo Boss pumps out (so depressing to look at). It has to be next level -- something that makes beholders realise what business suiting can be. Those who wear the usual charcoal pinstripes and black should be awestruck by how personable yet proper the Pelli POW is. Its muted variegation and very dark overcheck give it the gravitas the lighter POWs lack. It's matt texture, totally devoid of luster or (worse) shine, further adds to its propriety.

 

So. We OK with Pelli?

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Are we set on the charcoal POW overcheck option? It strikes me as a very Italian choice,like VBC or Ariston. Not a bad thing... but aren't there similar options already in their books? From TS' posts I got the impression it might be a special order a la LL.

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