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Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

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The past couple of days I've been wearing a jacket in VBC Super 140's with cashmere in the shop. This is a light, limp and super soft cloth. Everything that people on StyleForum say you shouldn't wear. It's even glossy. Jajaja. So tacky.

 

It is my new favourite. I never thought I'd enjoy the cloth as much as I do. If the kerbau cloth is fibrous brown rice, this VBC is super polished fragrant Thai jasmine. I made a suit (for a customer) in a Zegna Trofeo earlier in the year and it is like the amped up version of this VBC. Smoother & glossier still.

 

IMG_20170403_190028.jpg?raw=1

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IMG_20170419_151707.jpg?raw=1

 

The lone Malaysian employee of the Singaporean cloth distributor came by today to deliver a stick of this non-iron white twill shirting. I was told it is this distributor's best-selling shirting, being easy to care for, economical, thick and opaque. I think I've pre-sold 15 shirts in this with 13 from a single customer.

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Was clearing wardrobe and 'rediscovered' this fabric I bought from dieworkwear some time ago. http://dieworkwear.com/post/140281559379/special-cloth-alert. A 60/40 linen/silk blend, it has combined properties of both. Slubby with texture yet with resilience and still somewhat smooth to touch. dieworkwear was responsive and a delight to deal with, although he only deals with lengths nearest to the metre. Mine came in a plastic bag affixed with a length of sticky tape marked "Bennett Silks". I suppose he got Bennett Silks to weave as a custom run.

 

I have not had the time to get this done up and am looking for ideas on what to make this up. Ideas appreciated.

 

Here are pictures from dieworkwear:

novNjQY.jpg

j7VAqrA.jpgSdBOZPP.jpg

vKH8qli.jpg

0GsWuMi.jpg

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Ran through instagram. Again have not had the time to browse through styleforum or instagram for a long while. Quite surprised more suits of this cloth have yet to surface. Perhaps procrastination afflicts everyone, including me of course.

 

Made by Dream Bespoke

 

Fgwa7YA.jpg

 

 

Made by Sartoria Formosa

 

702xtbk.jpghRaewRL.jpg

 

 

Made by KayJen Dylan

 

qTKZhxT.jpg

7xUDOIy.jpg

MTahmKK.jpg

RTkO7op.jpg

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Very nice. Something about that dry look which I find very nice.

 

Does it still wrinkle as easily as 100% linen?

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Ran through instagram. Again have not had the time to browse through styleforum or instagram for a long while. Quite surprised more suits of this cloth have yet to surface. Perhaps procrastination afflicts everyone, including me of course.

 

 

 

 

 

Made by KayJen Dylan

 

qTKZhxT.jpg

 

 

 

 

Looks like pelvic tilt wasn't compensated for.

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Very nice. Something about that dry look which I find very nice.

 

Does it still wrinkle as easily as 100% linen?

 

Nope, more resistant to wrinkling than linen. Which I like very much. Retains a level of porosity which will work in our weather. dieworkwear calls this summer tweed.

 

 

Nice one.

 

Also, where are the pennies from? 

 

Pennies?

 

 

Looks like pelvic tilt wasn't compensated for.

 

Kayjen is MTM while Dylan is bespoke. So I guess there is a limit to what Kayjen's prices will include. 

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Looks like pelvic tilt wasn't compensated for.

Eeerrr I think it was as the drape of the trousers looks nicely done

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A blazer/odd jacket in blue linen/silk/wool blend would be ideal for my next commission.

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I think the cloth in question should be treated as a particularly rustic wool (summer tweed mah). Since you are looking for something out of the ordinary, I would vote for concave shoulders.

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Concave shoulders are already down the pipeline for a next suit commission. Thinking of trying neapolitan style for casual odd jacket.

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I was referring to the cloth in question. Scroll up a tiny bit and you will see the cloth in question, the only cloth in question.

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I think the cloth in question should be treated as a particularly rustic wool (summer tweed mah). Since you are looking for something out of the ordinary, I would vote for concave shoulders.

 

 

Good idea to start with. Concave shoulders with roped sleeveheads? 2-button SB with rounded patch pockets? Self-lining in front and quarter-lined at the back? 

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3 roll 2, 3.5" peak lapels, concave shoulders with roped sleeveheads, flapped patch pockets. Flared sleeves. As little lining as possible.

 

Who is known to make concave shoulders in Singapore?

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Although they do not entertain CMT, I think Hwa Seng can make concave shoulders with roped sleeveheads. Not sure about anyone else. 

 

From HST's FB,

 

ScLs6oS.jpg

9clPBRr.jpg

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Hi guys, to your knowledge, who makes the most understated Solaro fabric (wool)? Understated as in minimal "red sheen". Thanks in advance!

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Not sure if you can find these in your favourite tailor shop. FWIW

 

Ariston

 

240g

 

http://thenordicfit.com/articles/ariston-solaro-fabric-summer-suit

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/a-more-discreet-solaro.540122/

 

 

Fratelli Tallia di Delfino

 

250/260g

Super 130's 

 

 

Reda might have one but I just cannot be sure about this. Personally I prefer the Fratelli Tallia di Delfino ones rather than the Ariston one. 

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IMG_20170531_133654.jpg?raw=1

 

I think I have higher quality refuse bags than most of you. Now, you may think this is of extremely low importance in the general scheme of things, but I can show you it is the contrary. The proof is left as an exercise to the reader.

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