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Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

CLOTH SUITING SHIRTING

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#1541 andrew

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Posted 26 October 2017 - 10:27 AM

By a long shot, if anyone is thinking about letting go of your length of "dieworkwear summer tweed". Please drop me a pm!

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#1542 kotmj

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 08:42 PM

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Just now, I went to meet with David Gallimore, managing director of Luxury Fabrics which owns the brands William Halstead, Charles Clayton and etc. He is on an Asian tour, starting early this month with the major Chinese cities. He just arrived from the airport. In KL for about 24 hours, he plans to meet with Lord's and Jeremy Tok. Then he's off to meet with Dylan in Singapore. He's accompanied by his Singapore-based distributor, who is a founding member of the Advani clan of Singapore-based cloth wholesalers.

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It's a fairly typical sales call. I was offered quite a number of bunches to pick from. Luxury Fabrics is retiring all its brands like William Halstead and etc. It will offer all cloths under the Standeven brand from henceforth.

I think I asked to be sent 6 bunches, including one which is pure Escorial.

#1543 kotmj

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Posted 22 November 2017 - 12:14 AM

Now that I've reached home, I can write a bit more.

Luxury Fabrics has six production facilities in the UK and manufactures for many of the well-known brands.

The most remarkable thing from today's meeting was a very special bunch of pure Escorial. First of all, Escorial is pretty uncommon. It feels like cashmere, but without the durability drawbacks. For this special bunch, they painstakingly isolated individual Escorial fibers of specific natural shades. These similar-coloured fibers are then spun into yarns which are then woven together with yarns of other shades into cloth. In other words, these Escorial cloths contain no dye. The color you see is the natural colour of the fiber. Escorial sheep has wool which is mostly white, but there are individual fibers which are not white -- they are beige, brown, grey or black. These coloured hairs are picked out from amongst the mostly white hairs. They managed to weave Prince-of-Wales checks like this. The shades are mostly earthen, but there was one which is a very neutral grey. It bowled me over.

I traded some industry gossip with the SG distributor. So interesting for me. Was told that Dylan had recently employed a Korean tailor. Was shocked to be told that Prestigious Tailor at Clark's Quay has a financial backer and that Thomas Wong is not the majority owner.

#1544 takashi

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Posted 22 November 2017 - 08:08 AM

What is your view then on having and in house full time tailor compared to the model you have now?

 

Since your business can surely support having one. 



#1545 kotmj

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Posted 22 November 2017 - 10:27 AM

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More heavy lifting

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All six lengths Swan Hill Super 160's + 5% cashmere

#1546 "6"

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 12:22 AM

Top 2 tailoring outfits in MY: JT and a small startup called Lords.

 

I hope you brought he finds time for a traditional Malaysian meal of Teh Tarik and Nasi Lemak



#1547 kotmj

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 03:24 AM

What is your view then on having and in house full time tailor compared to the model you have now?

Since your business can surely support having one.


"I choose to work with every single person I work with. That ends up being the most important factor. I don't interact with people I don't like or admire. That's the key." --- Warren Buffet

Backroom tailors are the sorriest bunch of people I've met in my life. They are dumb, they are vain, they have a pronounced victim mentality, and they see the worst in people. Have one of these in the shop next to me? You must be joking.

#1548 kotmj

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Posted 28 November 2017 - 07:31 PM

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Kilos of cloth. And bunches.

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Like press conference after a serbuan polis where they discover shabu shabu

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The highlight is the Escorial. I spent the last 15 minutes just gasping at the incredible feel of the cloth. Magnificent.

#1549 John

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 10:57 AM

By a long shot, if anyone is thinking about letting go of your length of "dieworkwear summer tweed". Please drop me a pm!

bsG3nAy.jpg
image credits to stylejournaldaily

I have 2m. 

 

Happy to let it for for RM1,250 - postage included. 



#1550 zjchen

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 05:24 PM

Are you going to show us pictures of the fabric?

#1551 John

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:46 PM

Are you going to show us pictures of the fabric?

There are plenty floating around. 

 

It's a slik - linen blend with subtle irregular flecks. Feels very light, porous but at the same time a relative substantial body means it should drape very well. 

 

I bought it for 2/3 the price quoted. 

 

http://dieworkwear.c...or-summer-tweed

 

I was thinking of a 2-roll-3, 2 patch and a boat breast pocket. Just weighing up which Neapolitan tailor to give it to. My problem is they delivered 2m when I requested for 2.5m. 

 

Regards, 



#1552 kotmj

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 04:43 PM

The story with Escorial seems to be that, due to upheavals over the ages, the only stock of sheep remaining is in one or two farms in Aus/NZ where they are zealously guarded over. The other flocks were dispersed due to conquests and world wars. There is basically a supply monopoly of the fiber.

It is very, very soft with a pronounced stretch and spring. It is unlike merino.

https://youtu.be/mgJl67T5tIU

#1553 holymoly

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 05:35 AM

Are you going to show us pictures of the fabric?

 

 

Posts #1506 and #1507 on this thread http://thekerbau.com...thread/page-76 



#1554 holymoly

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 05:41 AM

There are plenty floating around. 

 

It's a slik - linen blend with subtle irregular flecks. Feels very light, porous but at the same time a relative substantial body means it should drape very well. 

 

I bought it for 2/3 the price quoted. 

 

http://dieworkwear.c...or-summer-tweed

 

I was thinking of a 2-roll-3, 2 patch and a boat breast pocket. Just weighing up which Neapolitan tailor to give it to. My problem is they delivered 2m when I requested for 2.5m. 

 

Regards, 

 

 

Did you inform Derek? The initial run, he offered in half meter increments. 



#1555 John

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 02:46 PM

Did you inform Derek? The initial run, he offered in half meter increments. 

Yes. It was a mistake on their part. 



#1556 kotmj

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 09:29 PM

The best write-up I could find on Escorial:
https://idealog.co.n...-baron-of-saxon

#1557 kotmj

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 05:16 PM

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Ooohh...

#1558 kotmj

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 05:18 PM

Also, isn't the solid white oak table from Muji great? Such nice grain. I wonder if I mentioned I replaced the teak table with an oak table.

#1559 kotmj

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 08:37 PM

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If you've had Super 160's and wonder what's next after that, well Escorial is the next frontier. Totally different. Very, very good.

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#1560 takashi

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 08:47 PM

How does it compare to Explorer in terms of crease resistant and breathing well?

 

Not looking at price offcourse.  







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