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kotmj

I am a total newbie. Please help me.

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Thank you noname, will pay a visit to iwannagohome tomorrow. I think I will get myself a kent brush from its official website. It seems more reliable and the price is cheaper.

 

Does anyone else have some suggestions for me? Would be good to have a few options.

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I bought a kent brush from the kent ebay store some time back. I remember it was cheaper than what was listed on the official website.

 

Not so sure about the clothes bag. I just hang mine in the wardrobe without cover. 

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I've just got myself a hanger from iwannagohome! as recommended by noname. Lovely piece of hanger with a nice finishing, but the width is too wide for my jacket. The edge of the hanger is protruding out of the sleeves.The shoulder flare is wide, but its' less than 2 inches. 

 

My search for that elusive hanger continues. 

 

Is there any physical or online store in MY or in SG that sells hangers like the ones in HangerProject? My jacket width from seam to seam is about 16.5" - 17.0" so ideally I should get a hanger with a width 15.5" right?

 

I really want to buy the wooden suit hanger from HP but the shipping cost of 40USD is just too much! 

 

Please help this unemployed graduate who wishes to keep his jacket in the best condition he can.

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^ I don't you can find one locally. Not in Singapore at least. Perhaps you can organise a group order so as to share shipping with others.

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Please help this unemployed graduate who wishes to keep his jacket in the best condition he can.

 

You could either organize a group buy as shipping is a standard amount for any number of hangers, or just buy an amount equivalent below the GST cap to ship to Singapore for yourself

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@terror the shipping cost is around USD90 for 30 hangers, but not sure if custom will impose some levy on that. So, do you really wanna get a few of those hangers?

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@terror the shipping cost is around USD90 for 30 hangers, but not sure if custom will impose some levy on that. So, do you really wanna get a few of those hangers?

Its ok.I'm going with Toscanini Su Misura

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Hi, been lurking around lyn style forum and kerbau recently and m interested in bespeaking my 1st suit

Im from penang and I know most of u guys goes to ah loke tailor in kl 

Any tailors to recommend in penang?

If theres none, whats the fastest time that I can finish up all my 3 fitting sessions with ah loke? Can it b done in a weeks time?I dont mind collecting the end product 1 month later.

And how much does ah loke charge for a fully canvassed / half canvas 3 piece suit(pants, vest and jacket)? 

On the material side...im looking for either a light grey / navy , how much do I need to pay for a decent quality ones? Can any1 recommend some for me? As im really clueless at the moment

Many thanks in advance

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Hello there again, so I've picked up my recent commission. A first 'real' suit outside of cheap shirts and a suit from bangkok in 3 days. This might've fit into another thread, but I've decided that the newbie one might suit better the nature of this post. 

 

Out of respect for the proprietor who did mention that he didn't actually like folks taking fit pics and coming back with comments, I didn't do so, and the results surprised me - though I can't say in a good way, as the pictures will tell. I'm not sure if this is considered 'ok' for a first suit, for my eyes may have been somewhat accustomed to the pictures post here, which I must imagine reflect many iterations with the same suitmaker/tailor.

 

The initial brief was quite simple. I would like a two-button, notched lapel suit, pants with side tabs for which we should try and aim for a clean break. During the first two fittings things did seem decent, though perhaps I didn't realise at the time what the pants looked like from the back. 

 

I'm not sure if the sleeves are a little short - when brought up the tailor did mention to me that he thinks it's my shirt cuffs that are a little too long. I must admit however that my shirts don't fit me spectacularly. 

 

This first set of pictures show what the suit looked like when put on on the day of collection. I mentioned to the tailor that it felt slightly snug when buttoned on, though I understand that generally when one has to reach out, move around more, etc, the buttons are undone. I liked the proportion of the lapel, as well as the quarters, though:

 

Front: http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/abrokentwig/media/Satorial/IMG_20140816_150606_zpse07a335c.jpg.html?sort=3&o=10

Back: http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b581/abrokentwig/Satorial/IMG_20140816_150651_zps9d6d71b0.jpg

Left: http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b581/abrokentwig/Satorial/IMG_20140816_150627_zpsad5461d8.jpg

Right: http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b581/abrokentwig/Satorial/IMG_20140816_150633_zpsa2bc182c.jpg

 

After 1 day of wearing, it looked, in my opinion, horrible. (I also had another shirt on - sleeves seems even longer now). Not sure if it's just the material crumpling.

 

Right: http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b581/abrokentwig/Satorial/2014-09-04210312_zpsb7df457e.jpg?t=1410368446

Left: http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b581/abrokentwig/Satorial/2014-09-042102_zpsee00250e.jpg?t=1410368449

Back: http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b581/abrokentwig/Satorial/2014-09-042103_zps8fa44927.jpg?t=1410368452

 

I have an outstanding commission for which I intend to do a two button, peak lapel, and would appreciate any comments or suggestions that I should point out to the tailor to look out for, please. 

 

(there's another story here, but more later)

 

Also, any possible alterations at this stage to remedy any issues visible would be great.

 

Thanks in advance!

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It isn't that impressive, even with the tempered expectations of a first attempt.

 

On the front, the shoulders were cut too horizontal. It should be more sloped. The shoulder slope is out by a lot -- something like 3/4". Both sides.

 

I personally dislike the way the fronts were brought together. During a fitting, the degree of overlap between both front pieces at the buttoning point is a variable. This is also the concept of the neck point, particularly important with DBs. Canonically, there is only one way to determine where the fronts overlap. But... it yields a garment that many customers especially in SE Asia today find "loose" at the front. So one is tempted to bring them closer together than one actually should. I imagine in SG this is done by everyone to produce that super-fitted SGporean look. It makes for incredible distortion in the jacket, seen especially at the back, the gaping of vents, and chevroning of stripes on the front.

 

With this jacket it was very heavy-handedly done. I do it too, but to a lesser degree. If we tailors don't, customers find it hard to accept the "limp" fit. (From their perspective. Once upon a time, bound feet were very erotic, and normal feet seen as coarse.)

 

It is not normal to have to unbutton the jacket to do things in. Jackets were meant to keep one warm. These are also lounge suits, so you would lounge in them while buttoned. But today's customer demand very lean garments which they can only move in when unbuttoned.

 

The way the front were brought together also caused the poor collar fit around the front.

 

The back shows the same lack of judgement as with the shoulder slope of the front. Back balance is long. Maybe 1" too long. The mess at the lumbar curve is related to the front, how they were overlapped; and to the excess back balance.

 

Sleeves are obviously too short.

 

Pants are OK -- if this were a baste. Crotch length is lacking by a lot -- maybe 1" or more. Extending the length of the crotch curve at the rear by 1-1.5" would eliminate the creasing just below the bum. Good thing is, back balance and all round ease are well-judged.

 

Tailoring is hard. The good tailors make good fits look effortless and a matter of course, but in fact lots of stuff were done to produce these.

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Thanks for taking the time out to write, Kotmj. At this stage, I'd think there's very little tat can be done? I too have particular distaste for the length of the sleeves as well. Frankly looking at the photos myself, even with my untrained eyes, I think you're being somewhat kind by saying 'it isn't that impressive'.

 

Holymoly, don't mean to keep it a secret, but also don't want to be announcing all over I guess. Have you had similar experiences?

 

What should I inform this particular tailor to be looking out for in the next commission? Looks like I have to be a little more involved in the process now.

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Sleeves can be lengthened. The other things are structural.

 

I don't know what you can do to influence the outcome of the next suit. This stuff is technical. I also do not know how they work -- how they are internally organised -- so would not know how to formulate any message you can pass to them. All the issues are fit-related, not construction-related, so the fitter/cutter is the person to influence. If fitter is one person and cutter another, you need to influence both.

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There seems to be an 'r' missing in that name. Also, I can see why the place doesn't entertain internet commentary.

 

Eh? In which name? In retrospect you're right - I've always subscribed to the thought that one should open his or her work to public scrutiny if one is confident about it. Not unlike defending one's thesis. I was probably too overzealous here into jumping into what seemed like a good deal.

 

Sleeves can be lengthened. The other things are structural.

 

I don't know what you can do to influence the outcome of the next suit. This stuff is technical. I also do not know how they work -- how they are internally organised -- so would not know how to formulate any message you can pass to them. All the issues are fit-related, not construction-related, so the fitter/cutter is the person to influence. If fitter is one person and cutter another, you need to influence both.

 

Even with working buttonholes? Ah, something I've learnt today then - I suppose as a consequence the positions off the buttons will now look slightly off?

 

And you're probably right also, in that it'll be out of my depth. I think they base it on a CAD (or AutoCAD) drafting system, then try to make amendments at fittings. 

 

I think I will need to make it clear to them that I want a more 'traditional' fitting suit, in that I need to be able to move comfortably in it - you can somewhat see it in the pants, I think. I had to tell them to loosen it after the first fitting resulted in the pants hugging my legs more than I liked. I.e., I could look good standing but I probably won't be able to sit. 

 

For me, clothes maketh the man, but the man has got to be able to function after wearing the clothes.

 

Maybe I should insist on taking fit pics and you kind folks can help? I also, now more so than ever, sense the disdain and cynicism in their products within this space.

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