Jump to content
arc

Arc's Experience with Iris Tailor

Recommended Posts

I wonder if the bunching at small of back can really be eliminated at this stage. The amount of alteration work appears huge to me. I don't think it's a nip and tuck. Maybe there's a trick I don't know.

 

Once had a customer with hyperthrophied traps -- I think it is actually impossible to get a continuous shoulder line unless you pad the whole thing over thickly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ gawd that is a nice suit. The trousers look much better now compared to their initial ball hugger stage

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This means moving each dart laterally 2" closer to the seat seam.

 

This post is merely anecdotal:

 

While I agree that "laterally" means, generally, sideways displacement, in medical texts, "laterally" specifically refers to sideways displacement away from the midline. The opposite would be "medially". Which is what I think you meant, assuming my guess that the 'buttcrack" seam is the centre seam. I could be wrong, in which case, this post is null and void. :-P And I sound like a total ass.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good man. Thanks for sharing.. I hereby pass the torch to you - please direct all inquiries about Iris Tailor to Mr. Arc in future!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, this question is directed to Arc: Do you know if Iris has experience working with heavy tweeds and flannels? I'm looking to get some odd trousers made in anticipation of colder climes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I realise there's a few qns that have gone unanswered... Which I will attempt to the best of my knowledge!

 

Joonian - Nani is doing a jacket for G that's in an approx 400g flannel, looks wonderful. So answer would be yes, they're very good at it.

 

Fiddler - Unsurprisingly, depends on extent of canvassing. But assuming full canvas, you're looking at about slightly over a grand (SGD) with VBC perennials as the basic cloth. I've done all my suits CMT, but I happen to think VBC perennial is a wonderful range - I do most of my work trousers in them.

 

EM - Nani has horn buttons in her inventory, but not quite to my liking. So I took the liberty of placing a few orders with Grunswald (http://grunwald-true-style.com/), since I wanted some of their burgol shoecare stuff as well.

 

I specified a deadline for my first suit, which was promptly met (I needed it for overseas meetings). My second suit was less pressing, and as a consequence took about 2-3 months before I took delivery. So in a nutshell, it depends on how pressing your circumstances are. Can't expect Nani to accomodate everyone's request mah.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took arc's recommendation to Grunwald and ordered a variety of buttons from them - Dark Brown Horn (Unpolished), Black Horn, and Grey Tagua nut. The unpolished dark brown horn is really special, and really comes to life with a dark suit.

 

On the other hand, to my mind the Black Horn and Grey Tagua nut aren't really particularly special. I may be committing heresy here, but I really can't tell the difference between the polished black horn and plastic buttons (it's that dark and shiny). The Grey Tagua nut buttons, I've realised, aren't really my thing.

 

The quality is generally spot on, but seriously, if you're going to pay for shipping, you should just buy three or four sets of buttons at one shot, and save them for future suits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I may be committing heresy here, but I really can't tell the difference between the polished black horn and plastic buttons (it's that dark and shiny). The Grey Tagua nut buttons, I've realised, aren't really my thing.

 

Guess you might be looking for some guadual blend in colours which the black horn buttons are unable to provide. Black horn buttons do look pretty uniform in colour, even upclose. I am pretty sure if you offer the Grey Tagua nut buttons up for sale, someone will pick them up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Btw - Iris now has a facebook account, used to update clients on their availability. For now, at least, until we can convince Nani to start putting up some suit fitting pics...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Btw - Iris now has a facebook account, used to update clients on their availability. For now, at least, until we can convince Nani to start putting up some suit fitting pics...

 

And soon our suits will take more than 2 months brudder! <_<

 

Can't risk that! :lol: and the internets will know which side we dress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Suit unpressed, seat needs taking in. Waist a tad snug, but no impetus to tweak further since I'm flying off soon.

 

On hindsight, the jacket looks a little short - though it didn't look that way in the mirror, so it might be partly due to the angle.

 

This is the brown H&S Crispaire. The Smiths Finmeresco has a much better drape, and comes slightly cheaper too. Highly recommend using the Finmeresco, Nani stands by it too.

 

DSC_0078-001_zps56a93cd7.jpg

 

DSC_0082-002_zps0f3ec476.jpg

 

IMG_20130618_194701-003_zps65b5439c.jpg

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×