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Arc's Experience with Iris Tailor

FEATURE Iris bespoke suit

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#21 terrorsquad

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:15 PM

Arc, I salute you for being able to wear pants made from the Minnis Fresco.

#22 arc

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:20 PM

Apparently the heavier weights are scratchier, according to Nani - who added that the 0500 was a joy to work with.

#23 terrorsquad

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:23 PM

I am very tempted to ask Nani to make me a jacket from the Carlo Barbera for H.Lesser that I have.

#24 ambivalence

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:24 PM

Looks good man!

#25 arc

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:52 PM

Iris Tailor: Part IV

Oddly enough, here I am smoking at the lift landing of my 15th floor flat... And a black cat walks up outta nowhere and plonks itself right beside me to stare at my committing vice.

Anyway... Here's round 4. We're on the potentially-finished-product rounds now - jackets are lined and buttons have been sewn on.

Here's the vest and trousers. Front and sides are pretty clean at this point. Note kotmj's advice on shifting the darts was incorporated.

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Some bunching in the ass area. I've got a small rear. I pointed this out to Nani, who fixed it overnight (God bless her).

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Here's a rear shot of the vest. A piece of advice I would offer to all and sundry who intend to commission a suit at Iris - do yourself a favor and start thinking early about your lining and button choices, and whether you'd like something that looks better than what's offered in store. Having not thought this through, I had to make do with the in-store offerings - which are kinda scant. I picked what I thought would be a decent, not-too-loud grey...

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(Also - vest to be taken in at the sides.)

Here's the jacket fitting. I have come to realise that lightly-padded shoulders don't work for me - both because I have *very* sloping/uneven shoulders, and also because I inherently favor a more structured look. That small bump you'll notice on the shoulder line isn't cloth bunching but my trapezius muscles - that's how light the padding was.

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You will also notice that despite my requests for open quarters, Nani still errs towards the side of caution - I would have been much bolder. If you're into the open quarters philosophy, tell her you'd like to see the entire last button unobscured - should do the trick.

Sleeve pitch issue is also coming home to roost at this stage. I would also have preferred a pinch more waist suppression at the jacket's mid-point, a la Steed jackets. But also notice how nicely pressed the lapels are, and the sweet lapel roll. Few in Singapore can do this well.

Sleeve pitch, as mentioned.

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With the upper back seams let out, the small of the back is bunching. We noticed this and I requested for suitable adjustment.

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That's it for round 4, folks. I've got some snaps of round 5, but am holding out because there's still some minor adjustments (before I depart for Rome tomorrow evening). With the suit approximately 90% complete, round 6 should be the concluding post for this feature... Likely to be sometime early July.

#26 kotmj

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 11:13 PM

Bravo!

#27 F1refighter

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 11:04 AM

...



#28 joonian

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 01:40 PM

That looks great.

#29 kotmj

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 03:01 PM

I wonder if the bunching at small of back can really be eliminated at this stage. The amount of alteration work appears huge to me. I don't think it's a nip and tuck. Maybe there's a trick I don't know.

Once had a customer with hyperthrophied traps -- I think it is actually impossible to get a continuous shoulder line unless you pad the whole thing over thickly.

#30 "6"

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:41 PM

^ gawd that is a nice suit. The trousers look much better now compared to their initial ball hugger stage

#31 attacusatlas

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Posted 18 June 2012 - 10:59 PM

what is the possibility of having 1st fitting during my short 2-day stay in SG this weekend?

#32 arc

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 05:37 PM

Almost nil I suspect, but contact Nani and try your luck

#33 attacusatlas

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 11:10 PM

darn i want a 3-roll-2 notch lapel, a peaked lapel with patched pockets and double-breasted vest in my kerbau cloth!

#34 carbman

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 12:18 PM

This means moving each dart laterally 2" closer to the seat seam.


This post is merely anecdotal:

While I agree that "laterally" means, generally, sideways displacement, in medical texts, "laterally" specifically refers to sideways displacement away from the midline. The opposite would be "medially". Which is what I think you meant, assuming my guess that the 'buttcrack" seam is the centre seam. I could be wrong, in which case, this post is null and void. :-P And I sound like a total ass.

#35 kotmj

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 04:20 PM

Medially wasn't even in my vocabulary before this.

#36 gshen

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 10:51 AM

Good man. Thanks for sharing.. I hereby pass the torch to you - please direct all inquiries about Iris Tailor to Mr. Arc in future!

#37 joonian

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Posted 29 June 2012 - 10:34 AM

Alright, this question is directed to Arc: Do you know if Iris has experience working with heavy tweeds and flannels? I'm looking to get some odd trousers made in anticipation of colder climes.

#38 Mr.J

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 12:48 AM

Just found out about this thread ! Looks like I have to make a trip down soon.

#39 Fiddler

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 10:55 AM

Im no expert but this look good on you.

Would like to try them....what's the price like to tailor a jacket and trousers?

Cheers

#40 EmeritusMentor

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 04:32 PM

Are those real horn buttons? May I ask where you got them?

Your Iris suit is stellar :D How long did they take to deliver your suit? My two-piece took 8 weeks.





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