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Member Since 12 Oct 2011
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#32399 Collateralised debt a.k.a. The Cloth Thread

Posted by kotmj on 01 October 2017 - 11:15 PM


Sold four suits in this the past week

#32373 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 18 September 2017 - 02:03 PM

^^^ Thank you. I get to learn something new again today.
Last stupid question, so it is technically possible to just cut one whole piece without a backseam? Advisable or dumb idea? Assume no pattern matching required, just plain cloth.
Also, I just checked some of my Borrelli's and they are cut as in B. Now you have got me curious, I am gonna check all my other suits too.

The center back seam does some work--- work which isn't done when the seam is omitted. However, I think the cb seam is the least important when compared to not having a separate side body or front darts.

#32367 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 15 September 2017 - 12:19 PM


Diagram A is how 99.9% of jackets are cut today. Diagram B is how almost all Savile Row jackets were cut in the (glorious) past, but which today is receding. Notice the side body is not separate from the front. Diagram C is how Liverano does it.

No reverse engineering. I saw pictures and figured it out.

#32363 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 14 September 2017 - 09:37 PM


The second JT jacket to feature a boutonniere Milanese

#32357 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 14 September 2017 - 03:43 PM

A Liverano doesn't just not have front darts, it also has no side body. Which is why fat people look even bulkier, and skinny people look like they're swimming in it.

Joking. I made two in this style so far:



I charge RM1k extra to omit one dart, and another RM1k to omit one side body. So rm4k extra for a Grade A homage. Still only a fraction of the price of the original.

#32256 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 19 August 2017 - 10:33 PM


Ahhh, finally adequately calorified. I ate right opposite the narrow alley of the hotel. Sukhumvit is like a Japanese ghetto. 50% of the people on the street are Japanese. So many beautiful Japanese women like those you see in Japanese AV. In the little eatery above, I was the only non-Jap patron.


Everything in Japanese


The cook puttered non-stop in the kitchen for half an hour to prepare this unremarkable dish.


Where I am now. I had to frame the picture such that the two completely naked hookers I hired are not visible.


I have three main impressions from the Liverano trunk today.

#32141 What are you wearing today?

Posted by kotmj on 20 July 2017 - 01:06 PM

This is one of those lunches that take up the whole afternoon.

#32093 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 10 July 2017 - 05:35 PM


I've been trying out the stock Rundschau method for jackets for the past 8 jackets or so. So far, deeply impressed. You're looking above at what is essentially unmodified Rundschau slim fit.


#32087 A rekindled love of canvas bags

Posted by kotmj on 07 July 2017 - 11:09 PM

Great find!

#32037 A rekindled love of canvas bags

Posted by kotmj on 17 June 2017 - 12:35 AM

I don't think rewaxing is recommended for the triple layer canvas of Brady. Firstly, because it mostly comes from the rubber layer between the cotton canvas. And secondly, because the treatment of the cotton canvas is not wax-based.

#32001 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 04 June 2017 - 08:51 PM

Out of the blue (as always), I was asked today if I'd like to be a product sponsor for an event at a local university. The event has a peculiar name that doesn't describe anything. A glance at their fb page deepens the mystery. After 5 minutes of scrutiny, it was still not clear to me WTF this clearly long-drawn-out event is about. It seems to run on for months.

After 15 minutes, it became clearer. Each year, the student union of this university organises a complex multistage event that eventually after ridiculous amounts of activity culminates in the crowning of what they deem the most leng chai and the most leng lui freshman of that year.

For instance, in 2015 this guy was deemed most leng chai:

It is not clear what role my brand can play. Not sure if I should even ask.

#31996 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 31 May 2017 - 08:03 PM


I had a Ukrainian photog edit this pic.

#31989 Shirts

Posted by kotmj on 28 May 2017 - 06:26 PM


Shirt in non-iron white twill; trousers in Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino "Positano" Super 140's.

#31987 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 28 May 2017 - 01:23 AM

Spent a large portion of this evening solving various facebook and instagram problems. Both are ridiculous. I never accepted a fb friend request in all my life...for good reason. I found the whole concept of fb ridiculous. Even as a student I never wanted to have anything to do with facebook. The user interface i find to be pure insanity.The only reason I'm on it now is because of the business.


Instagram is worse than fb. Unfortunately it is necessary to engage with both platforms if you run a business. Most of you will not understand what I'm talking about. That's because these platforms are OK if used in idiot/consumer mode, which is how you use it, but when you use them as advertising tools, they are willfully infuriating.


I find Google Adsense to be much better. I never found it infuriating. It consistently behaves as expected. Not fb or instagram.

#31975 The suiting thread

Posted by kotmj on 24 May 2017 - 11:15 PM

Anyway, pretty sure the space is mine. She loved the marketing collateral I sent her.