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  1. So which do you prefer, stainless steel or carbon steel? I got the standard version Shozaburo because it was cheaper
  2. How are the drafts from the book? Or compared to the newer MS I sent Nice that the forum is back up smoothly
  3. Lovely. Will this series be something like a Top 10 fabrics, most value for money, most luxurious? or maybe even FAQs on shirts trousers jackets. based on your experience with clients expectations Which reminded me, I was in a small local shirt factory once. This young chap kept squeezing the love handles of his shirt, indicating that it’s baggy. The owner said it was already tight. And any tighter would be too tight. (and they’re famous for slim fits!) In the end she gave in and reduced the ease on both sides by 1/8” and told him to not come again. Lol
  4. Haha have thought about the way I speak and communicate a lot. This video at 4:17 onwards is pretty informative on how to speak better. I don't think you speak fast or have a high pitch, faster than normal perhaps but maybe its your first video and you're nervous/don't know what to say etc... Speaking faster/high pitch isn't necessarily a bad thing, can be used to convey excitement/enthusiasm. And too much of anything is almost always bad. Morgan Freeman recommends to yawn or basically relax your vocal cords to sound better. Being longwinded and unrelated... The opposite however is pretty much how south east asians speak, very monotonous with improper stressing on syllables. Doesn't sound melodious to the ears. I remember watching/reading somewhere that the ears find a very specific tone structure (unsure of the term) pleasing. And that most English words are pronounced/written in that way to sound nice. Hope i can find the video/article. It's something like this - Plea sing. The "sing" part should have a lower tone than "Plea" In pinyin it might be Plea (1st tone) Sing (4th tone) Whereas Plea (4th tone) Sing (1st tone) sounds weird I also have a theory that citizens in countries with more tones/better pronunciation have more singers. Chinese - Taiwan/Hongkong and the English speaking countries but I ramble. Interested on what you guys think!
  5. Probably referring to Dylan's Instagram. Interested in the future videos!
  6. Very interesting, going by this diagram. Every 0.5 μm = +10 to the Super number. So VBC 21 superbio = 21μm = Super 55s? Can't find info on polywool, would assume Superbio's characteristics is closer to it
  7. Happy new year! Yup got that book recently too, this particular correction gave me so much trouble. 'Oben' was translated into lower. Post reminds me of the Michael Jackson tilt or the MRT posture. Maybe even 10cm not enough!
  8. Interesting, I've generally just used Hip/12 (w/o ease allowance), and never paid much attention to it. Thought MS's method was a little too technical Just chalked, mine's roughly 5.25" below waistband seam and is almost exact with some margin for error (~+/- 0.5")for the most prominent part. i.e. roughly 3 1/8 inch above crotchline (or 38/12) 10" Rise - 1.5" waistband -> 8.5" Less Hip line height 3 1/8" -> 5 3/8" (5 1/4" chalked)
  9. Got it from my tailor who got it from other tailor/fabric shops that closed down. Apparently it’s supposed to be pure wool but I got it cheap and don’t want to dry clean. So it’s a muslin now lol, definitely not pure polyester though. Might be a poly wool. Quite thin and porous compared to pure polyester but I’ve felt only really bad pure polyester fabrics All my work trousers are poly wool Will take a photo against natural sunlight tomorrow if it helps
  10. Just got my hands on Sven Jungclaus's books in english and decided to do up a muslin with adjustments. Seems very much like a simpler Mueller & Sohn draft. Didn't like the knees, too tight unless its jeans or with a bigger hem, maybe will work better if hem width is 17.5"++. Used MS's knee instead. Yeah, I googled to check and rise you gave is what MS is doing too. Not sure how to quantify the back crotch extension (is this the proper term?) Drafted Sven's way, about 2.25" + front 2". Perpendicular distance from hip line is ~5". I think its plenty! Tried Mansie's draft and have a pair of shorts with front crotch extension of 3", comfortable but looks stupid lol. Ignore the bad sewing. Drew position of my balls in red, and front crotch line, lol. This is a 10 inch rise, usually 10.5", tried 9" rise but didn't like it! Top of waistband below bellybutton Seat is 38" with 3.5" ease. Also, is there an advantage to drafting back hip at an angle? (red lines, MS does it on the hip line, Sven on crotchline) Seems to be extremely similar if you measure it horizontally (yellow line). Lastly, I think seat seam angle is very troublesome. When tired, pelvis tilts forward, and you get draglines. Even when fitting the posture constantly changes, especially when you look in the mirror sideways. Where's your common ground. Lol too many questions Btw, i'm no tailor. Just a beginner, unable to afford the high bespoke prices and hate the local kpop trouser scene.
  11. Even without going commando, your nuts get slightly squished! Even with a generous front crotch extension I might be overthinking this though haha
  12. This has been on my mind for sometime now. Does the rise measurement include the sagging balls? Seems like all drafts don’t, if only allowance for balls shifting to left or right. Have you ever thought of it? Lol
  13. I asked my tailor once on how he dealt with really difficult customers. He said he doesn’t turn them away, charge more, no free alterations and prioritise lower. He still likes money.
  14. very interested in what syed posted. and hey, your lawyer might be your potential customer. win-win
  15. In addition to Jack Welch's advice, Ray Dalio's Principles might be an interesting short read.
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