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shanecross

Trousers/Pant

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Yeah, epic gesture. The South Italians are supposed to be more expressive/less inhibited.

 

Someone had a suit made in Bangkok. I was shocked to see the buttonhole on the waistband was hand sewn, and quite well too.

thaibuttonhole_zps6a6c8b3c.jpg

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It occurred to me that though there is a tradition for pretty good jackets, pants have always been simple affairs in this country. I would say that the pants being made today by some of the higher end local tailors exceed all historic standards. To get a feel for historic standards for pants in Malaysia, go to any provincial tailor (Bentong, Kampar, etc.) The construction is very rudimentary. I have some old bespoke trousers from a tailor who make great jackets; they would be seen as very low cost today.

 

Vis a vis the 60s and 70s, jacket standards went downhill while pants standards are better today.

 

The Japanese also do not have such great pants, historically. Italy and the UK are really where trousers have reached a pinnacle.

 

I'm wondering how to organize things so that unbelievable trousers can be produced here. It won't be a resurrection of old standards since we never had high standards in that garment. It will be a real genesis, from scratch.

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For sure the elite trousermakers of the future will not be those with 60 years of experience sewing trousers. Not even 50 years. Not even 10 years. No, they will have sewn precisely zero trousers. The older ones are too set in their ways.

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I think Fox Tailor makes nice trousers. But, I guess I might be a little biased. That is the only tailor I have used since 1994, apart from maybe one that I tried during a trip to Bangkok ages ago.

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This pair of trousers has 10 pockets.

 

devan_zps950cc355.jpg

 

2X coin pocket, accessible from the exterior

2X internal waistband pocket

2X side pocket

2X coin pocket, nested inside side pocket

2X back pockets

 

This is the third pair I'm making for him. His jackets too are riddled with pockets. But, curiously, he doesn't want any ticket pockets on his jackets.

I never thought it possible. I met this customer on Monday morning. He said, "Jeremy, I need another pocket on my pants for my passport. I'm in Spore all the time."

 

So, now, his pants will have 11 pockets in all.

devan_pocket_zpsy6pwtai0.jpg

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For curiosity's sake I totalled up the invoice values of this customer and came to a figure of RM28k.

 

You may want to tally up the number of pockets as well.

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I got a friend coming back from the UK again and I'm wondering if it's worth buying some fabric and getting her to bring it back for me. Whats a safe length to buy for a pair of trousers? I m quite huge, a 40 waist and 6 foot tall. I read that 1.5m for a 60inch wide is plenty. Is that true?

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Yes, I have trousering cottons. But we are quite busy nowadays, so may not be flexible enough for overseas customers. Will obviously try my best, but many delivery commitments.

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I got a friend coming back from the UK again and I'm wondering if it's worth buying some fabric and getting her to bring it back for me. Whats a safe length to buy for a pair of trousers? I m quite huge, a 40 waist and 6 foot tall. I read that 1.5m for a 60inch wide is plenty. Is that true?

"Plenty" would be 1.8m, not 1.5m.

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Finally got my cotton trousers from kotmj, after disastrously slow delivery by singpost, and several intermediaries. Should have asked for more taper...

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