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Older tailoring


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Post up your older classic tailoring garments. Show us archaic details, and long lost craftsmanship. 
 

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Found an old Spark Manshop DB Navy Blazer my father had made in the early 90s. Its fully canvased and some nice hand detailing.

The cut is ordinary, no real waist suppression, but clean enough. Lots of shoulder padding. 

Cloth is a plain weave by Italian mill Guabello in Biella, the brand name is still around. 

Sleeves need lengthening slightly. 
 

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I find the hip pockets extremely high. This is because tailors here simply position the hip pockets at the same level as the LOWEST button. If that jacket were a 6x2, the hip pockets would be 4" lower. If it were a single button jacket, the IQ 70 coatmaking assistant (often the wife of the coatmaker, or an apprentice since these are the people who make all the pockets), would go a huffing and a puffing and asking the coatmaker where to put the pocket. The answer they get would be, "8" from the bottom"!

From my earliest days in tailoring, this system for determining the vertical position of hip pockets appeared to me completely retarded. It's a system only low IQ people could construct.

For me, the vertical position of both the breast and the hip pockets are, 1/3rds from the top and the bottom respectively. I find constant values completely retarded. 8" from the bottom is a very different look for a 6' 4" person than for a 5' 2" person. Whatever rule used should scale with the jacket length. No constant values.

The other severe retardation, among many other retardations, is the lateral positioning of the back pockets of trousers.

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