Jump to content

The suiting thread


kotmj
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fitting for a sport jacket in 9 oz W Bill fabric. Rare to get something so light. Will feature bi-swing back for additional mobility.

 

Crescent pockets

 

And on influence from kotmj, am getting a non-droopy gorge.

 

Will feature a bellied lapel that roooooolllllllls.

 

Featured here with an ugly tie knot.

 

photo21_zps21a74947.jpg

 

Here's the Henry Poole silhouette (below) -- with a 2B (trying to make up my mind if I want one button or two)

 

ScreenShot2013-01-17at225952_zps44db0cff.png

 

 

 

That protrusion below my neck (back) is caused by the braces. BAH!

 

photo22_zps1cf936b5.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should I go with one, or two button, folks? It's marked on the coat.

 

He's incredibly resistant to giving me wider lapels though (as are most tailors on the Row actually. They all tend to prefer lapels that are just shy of the halfway mark). I really wonder why, he just thinks that smth that is too wide will, swallow me up, especially since I'm small built. I have my lapels on my previous coat at 3", I was fighting hard for 3" 1/4. He compromised and gave me 3" 1/8, whatever that is. LOL. Don't even think that'd make a difference. 1/8 of an inch. That's like 0.32 cm. BAH.

 

Close-up of the fabric. I know, I know, this probably isn't to everybody's taste here as well. It's very vibrant in real life.

 

Hope to wear this when I visit the countryside, or when I get out of the city.

 

photo21_zps03dff3f0.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Want to know how to spot a tailor, and distinguish him from a tailor? And score a cheap suit whilst at it? Savile Row relevant.

 

how to spot a drunken tailor...

 

Picture%2848%29.jpg

(The Windmill, at the end of Savile Row, on Mill St.)

 

This little piece isn’t going to directly improve your knowledge of Savile Row tailors. But if you're around Savile Row on a Friday evening, I know a couple of watering holes that are a real education.

 

Tailors will frequent all the haunts of the West End. But we will always need at least a pint of Youngs Ale in The Windmill, and a Guinness in Mulligans.

 

It’s sometimes difficult to spot the difference between tailors and cutters. But here's a couple of tips:

 

They’ll both be in suits. However, if you look closely the Tailor's suit is better pressed. This is because he only wears his suit to and from work. When he’s in the workshop he'll wear his “Sittin' Drums” (old clothes). The Cutter will have been wearing his suit all day, tending customers in the front of the shop.

Picture%2846%29.jpg

(Mulligans Oyster Bar, behind Savile Row on Cork St.)

 

With a little observation and eavesdropping you’ll soon find them. The one complaining about a "skiffle" (i.e. a rushed job) will probably be the Tailor, who's had pressure from a Cutter all week. Or if you hear constant moanings about how slow the trade has been recently,

 

Congratulations! You've found yourself a Cutter.

 

But apart from that, they drink as heavily as each other.

 

If you're not experienced enough to spot a bespoke suit from a single glance across the bar, a really simple guide is to check out the lapel hole. On Bespoke, it'll be dead straight and look a bit longer than your used to seeing on ready-to-wear i.e. it should be an inch and 1/8th, exactly.

 

If the lapel hole is like that, chances are you’ve got someone in the trade. Savile Row bespoke only has the normal, short "keyhole" lapel holes (with the little round bits on the end) on the actual bottonholes. With a bit of luck, he'll be drinking the sales tax off that “Bit o' Private” he’s going to make for you.

 

If you're not wanting to meet tailors or get a discount suit using the “folding stuff”, they're still both great places. And the food and drink is as good as you’ll get anywhere; particularly well-known are the fabulous steak pies in The Windmill. Lovely.

 

Happy hunting.

 

http://www.englishcu...ves/000025.html

 

Mulligans is sadly long gone!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...