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The suiting thread


kotmj
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All,

 

Have neared completion of the first suit from Iris. Have previously posted on trousers and am happy with those, attached a link for the jacket. Lighting is challenging in the shop. Generally very happy with it though would have liked gorge height lower so that lapel tips point more to shoulder edges than mid shoulder - more in keeping with a Tom Ford Windsor jacket look.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/136299054@N08/

 

All and any comments appreciated. Apologies for no side shot but on viewing in the mirror sleeve angel was such that there was no creasing and a nice straight line.

 

RedDirt

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's a funny phenomenon to see Japanese tailoring operations moving into a market like Vietnam. It is akin to some/most (edit accordingly) Singaporean tailoring shops, after cutting, shift the fabric lengths to have tailoring work done in Malaysian or Indonesia off-shore islands (Batam, Bintan). Some of these factories may even be owned by the tailoring shop. One such shop is Tailort located in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. It does menswear tailoring exclusively and belongs to Suit-Ya http://www.suit-ya.com/. It means that you can order from Japan, the fabrics get cut and made in Hanoi, then receive the suit in Japan or you can get to Hanoi and have the suit done there. The backend operations are probably owned by Suit-Ya and local Vietnamese partners. It also has a sister shop called Clomscloset http://clomscloset.com/, (only in Hanoi though) that does womenswear MTM programs as well as sells Japanese feminine wares. 

 

Thirst for luxury bespoke/made-to-measure goods is indeed everywhere. 

 

Links:

http://tailort.com/

http://profile.ameba.jp/bespoketailortailort5/

http://tailort.blogspot.sg/

http://ordercompany.net/works.html

https://www.facebook.com/bespoketailortailort

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsKaQTJHolZMpdHuHVl0rjw

 

Articles:

http://echizen-sakana.seesaa.net/article/407962355.html

http://www.tnkjapan.com/blog/2014/04/19/%E6%9C%8D%E3%82%92%E5%A4%89%E3%81%88%E3%82%8C%E3%81%B0%E4%BA%BA%E7%94%9F%E3%81%8C%E5%A4%89%E3%82%8F%E3%82%8B%EF%BC%81%E3%83%8F%E3%83%8E%E3%82%A4%E3%81%AE%E4%BB%95%E7%AB%8B%E3%81%A6%E5%B1%8B%E3%81%95/

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Hi guys,

For those formal balls and dinners where no one seems to wear Black Tie, what's everyone's opinion of a midnight blue peak lapel single breasted single button paired with a midnight blue dupioni silk bow tie to emulate the 'Black Tie' look?

I already have a dinner jacket so I don't think I need another one...yet... and I have 6 meters of midnight blue barathea lying in the wardrobe :)

 

 

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Wow that is pretty fascinating. Any sense of the quality you get from these shops? 

 

 

I will make a mental note of visiting it the next time I am in Hanoi, maybe even taking a few pictures. From what I read, they carry Dormeuil, VBC, Loro Piana, Reda, Lessona Lessona, Guabello, and Japanese weavers like Kuzuri-keori and Miyuki-keori for their bespoke services. Prices here seem reasonable http://tailort.com/?page_id=49. Note that buttons, lining, pickstitching, and basting fit are optional costs. It does not seem like the typical tourist traps that paint a picture of everything cheap. 

 

It looks easy to get to, at least from the map.

 

mnkrEZA.jpg

http://www.vietnam-sketch.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/102013-North-map.pdf

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  • 3 weeks later...

I saw this today as well. I know nothing about tailoring, but was left wondering - does one even need so many measurements? I would imagine a tailor takes the number of measurements s/he does because it's efficient, and thence it's diminishing returns. 

 

Also, no finished product shown, heh.

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