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The suiting thread


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I've been unspeakably busy. My days are dense with work-related tasks.

I need to find ways of recruiting more effectively.

A number of people came for interviews. I think 3. None were suitable. One, a Chinese Malaysian fashion design grad, male, was so low IQ it just wasn't funny. He had gone to several tailors in KL to ask for a job. He even went to Ah Loke, who dismissed him with a wave of his arms. At JT, his IQ score was found to be 90. His manual dexterity was in the bottom quartile.

A fashion design student, female, from Jakarta came to interview for a part-time job. She seemed so muddle-headed. IQ was 109. Manual dexterity was a C. She couldn't communicate.

A Malay lady came as well. Lots of stations in clothing-related jobs, all only for short periods, including Sacoor Bros alterations department and Fox Tailor Alamanda outlet. She was evil. Psychopathic. My intuition told me. Maybe I'm wrong.

Tomorrow, a 20yo Malay boy is coming for an interview. He said he only has Sijil Kemahiran. That he only knows how to sew trousers, nothing else. He doesn't even know how to cut them. He had spent 9 months at a Malay-owned sewing workshop sewing trousers. Does it make sense to come for an interview? he wanted to know.

He has no idea. I've been looking for someone like him for the past 10 years.

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Also delivered this today. I know, I know. I did it for cari makan purposes. All those vegan lunches cost money. Don't judge me.

It's to be worn under an Escorial suit delivered earlier, also made by me.

Bespoke cravat by the Mayang boy.

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Brand new bunch by the Johor supplier. Made in Italy. Maybe tomorrow I show. Woven.

I finally got around to answering the Englishman. It's like a public service, since it is unlikely he will be a customer.

Hi Kenneth,

I finally get around to answering. The lining of a jacket is absolutely non-structural. It is non load-bearing. It has to be so. Otherwise, the lining, being made of a light and delicate viscose, polyester or cupro, would rip and tear in a very short time. We tailors ensure the lining bears no tensions by cutting it larger than the shell fabric. That way, the shell fabric and the canvas absorb all the loads.

Between the shell fabric (seersucker, in this case) and the lining is something called the canvas. Without a canvas, the jacket is a disheveled mess. It will look like a shirt that has lapels. 99.99% of the jackets made in Malaysia by tailors are in the half canvassed construction, which also means it is fully fused.

100.0% of the jackets made on Savile Row are fully canvassed, which is a very different way of constructing jackets from half canvassed. 80% of the jackets I produce are fully canvassed.

The canvas and the lining are two separate things. The canvas gives the jacket its unique and flattering shape. This is so it does not rely solely on the wearer's body for shape. Almost everything that is nice about a jacket---its smartness, its elegance---is due entirely to the structure given by the canvas. Without it, the chest collapses and the lapels curl to the front. Almost all the so-called unlined and unstructured jackets out of Italy are in fact technically fully canvassed and quarter lined.

I wrote about the differences between half and fully canvassed here: https://www.jeremytok.com/single-post/2019/02/02/additional-thoughts-on-how-to-find-decent-and-affordable-tailoring-in-south-east-asia



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Left, the Malay boy. Right, the Mayang boy.

Today, a Sri Damansara girl came for interview. UCSI Fashion design grad. Spent about 2 years after graduation at a place in Bukit Bintang called SML Academy being taught by a Madam Tan on how to do tailoring for men and women. Madam Tan retired after teaching that batch, and SML is no more.

She is super keen on a job at JT.

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Yesterday, after his first day at work, the Malay boy followed me on his bike to his apartment. I showed him the place. I had earlier that day paid the 1 month advance rent and the 1 month deposit. I asked him if he needed cash---I can do an advance on his salary. He said he is fine for now, and will let me know if he needs it.

This morning, he did not come to work. He had blocked me, so I could not contact him.

I guess that is the last I shall see of him.

I told the landlady this. I had just paid her yesterday. She said "Oh, wow." But did not offer some sort of partial refund.

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JT has feelings of loving kindness towards all beings.

I sent off an offer letter to the Sri Damansara girl this morning. Start of employment was to be tomorrow. She said her friend did a PCR test yesterday because of covid symptoms. She (Sri Damansara girl) may have to quarantine if her friend is positive.

A few hours later, she told me her friend tested positive.

Also, I am looking to hire an administrator. Would take the burden off me.

Anyway, another unboxing video.


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