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The suiting thread


kotmj
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Hi ,

Thanks for the welcome and speedy reply.

To rate Ian Chang higher than a Chicago Tailor is what I find a tad too high. That Ian rates himself highly, which tailor in KL and PJ doesn't rate himself highly when you walk in, only to find dissappointing work when you go for collection or end up in an argument.

Ian may know the latest styles and have visited Saville Row, he is more a marketeer than a good tailor, he has even brought back a famous malaysian hand tailor from Saville Row, no offence to him, he is running a good store and doing all the right things to make his brand known, every success to him, for he has turned his passion into a successful business.

Here in Malaysia,

As you have stated earlier, ask tailors what "fully canvass" or "full floating canvas" is and they look at you with contempt cause they know not what it is. The language should be more like "fused or non fused" some really bad ones don't even know that.

Fine tailoring is not about costs, the fabric has to be discerningly studied, handled, selected and sculptured as a second skin.

One day I just might pop into Ah Loke tailor, to take a look at their work.

Keep up the good work, The Kerbau is a good read

Thank you

 

I'd like to think kotmj's rating of Bespoked higher than Despos is sardonic and shouldn't be taken literally.

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E.Zegna/Zegna Couture jackets are full canvassed with a really soft chest piece and very minimal shoulder padding (more like just canvass rather than padding) much like Ring Jacket. If you can swing USD$3000+ for a suit, go for it. Su misura starts around $3300-3500.

 

Can't speak for the quality of Z Zegna though.

The Zegna I inspected was revolting. It is not something that embodies the culture and tradition of a particular school of tailoring. It was disingenious, faux, and seemed to be made for the new rich in Beijing or the US. The pricing also tells you it tries to be a Veblen good.

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you are observant, am sure you have read about caraceni, no i have not tried yet, been walking past Gianni Campagna's Caraceni store for years even spoke to him on occassions but i have not tried him yet, a very charming fellow, if i am not mistaken they have 3 branches in milan, the other 2 are run by direct decendents of caraceni, i am an old client of one of his better known competitor but definately not Zeckna ( local tailor pronounciation ). my hobbies are hand tailored clothes and books on tailoring. i am no tailor and neither do I know how to stitch. do not get me wrong i am not here to brag. I am here to read and to learn something new. like your blog cause its malaysian and some of you do have a good eye.

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The Zegna I inspected was revolting. It is not something that embodies the culture and tradition of a particular school of tailoring. It was disingenious, faux, and seemed to be made for the new rich in Beijing or the US. The pricing also tells you it tries to be a Veblen good.

 

Was this a business suit? I haven't handled those things. I get distracted by their plethora of casual jackets which are unconstructed soft jackets in mixes of wool, linen and silk. If money were no object..

 

On an unrelated note, one thing that gets me is that their stores are always staffed by incompetent sales people in the store who don't know what their talking about.

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If I were to buy from tailor it will be expensive. Is hard to find it online and they usually don't ship to Malaysia but can ship to Singapore...wth...

 

Malaysian tailors upcharge for bemberg lining??? It's part and parcel of the suit for gawd sakes and doesn't cost much to be honest.

 

I though people bought their own because they want a particular colour, etc.

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If I were to buy from tailor it will be expensive. Is hard to find it online and they usually don't ship to Malaysia but can ship to Singapore...wth...

 

How much exactly are you willing to pay for the lining?I have plenty in the lining book provided to me by LBD and there is also Emarzine in it which is just amazing. But it costs more then 10 pounds a meter.

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Was this a business suit? I haven't handled those things. I get distracted by their plethora of casual jackets which are unconstructed soft jackets in mixes of wool, linen and silk. If money were no object..

 

On an unrelated note, one thing that gets me is that their stores are always staffed by incompetent sales people in the store who don't know what their talking about.

 

It definately was a business suit from the look of the fabric. All menswear stores in are staffed by people who are all ignorant on fine menswear, even tailors are just as ignorant. I guess it comes with that kind of job. However, to my shock and horror I did find 2 menswear store in KL, who had individuals who were truly well versed in what they were doing, even able to tell some histroy of the brand they represent and the models and cut involved, now thats strange.

 

Zeckna as the local tailors call it, is just a sportswear brand and an entry starter suit. I do like their sportswear though.

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Malaysian tailors upcharge for bemberg lining??? It's part and parcel of the suit for gawd sakes and doesn't cost much to be honest.

 

I though people bought their own because they want a particular colour, etc.

Well my tailor doesn't carry this lining unfortunately and I would like some interesting colours as well. I called People's Textiles but was told all of them are mix with polyester. My budget is around RM20-30 a meter.

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Well my tailor doesn't carry this lining unfortunately and I would like some interesting colours as well. I called People's Textiles but was told all of them are mix with polyester. My budget is around RM20-30 a meter.

Just go to the shop. Maybe 70% of the linings there are Bemberg. You'll know by how soft and silky they feel.

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As I understand from reading SF, bemberg is a registered name for cupro manufactured by Asahi Kasei (or something to that effect). So all the 100% cupro linings I've seen are technically considered bemberg-equivalents, by virtue of them being also synthetic silks woven from natural fibres (I think).

 

I think I also read somewhere that ermazine = viscose? Damn confusing lah.

 

Edit: Ah. http://www.squidoo.com/Truth-About-Fabrics.

 

Anyway aside from the Hunt & Winterbotham linings, Iris also recently picked up a Dugdale linings book that has some patterns. FYI.

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