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The suiting thread


kotmj
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I wonder all this tumblr or blog be it fashion or food, do they make money or generate revenue. Maybe some member can pipe in on what's the deal. I've been following Mostexerrent, Voxsartoria, La Casuarina and etc. And i wonder how the hell can anybody afford such wardrobe. Do they do this full time? Are they in the "industry"? Is there some product placement/advertising going on that we don't know about? Just wondering.........

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Looks like PG's dominance in the menswear tumblr world and his position atop the Antipodes tumblr totem pole is coming to an end with his move to The Orchard! Silicon Valley has never put a premium on good dressing, after all.

I don't check his tumblr often, but he's mostly in tights of late...

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Here's my theory: Solid cloths have to be really high quality stuff otherwise they will look flat and boring. Quality matters less for a patterned cloth. Agree/disagree?

 

Low quality stuff tends not to hold up to wear and tear as well, so it will tend to look crap faster weather or not its got patterns. Maybe if the patterned it may look less obvious - possibly? That being said, I've got an unstructured cotton/linen jacket of dubious quality (plain navy) which is still holding up pretty well 12 months in.

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Fortunately for everyone, the question is moot because we have TS to rely on!

 

That being said, I have consistently found that the "better" mills/merchants generally produce "better" patterns - either more sublime, more textured, or with nicer contrasts.

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Let's kick off this thread with a jacket I found in the workshop. The owner of the jacket had brought it to a cutter to have it copied. The cutter, in turn, gave it to the coatmaker with a "Nah, copy."

 

To be clear upfront, I do not like this coat. Let's look at the coat.

 

zegna1-2.jpg

 

What catches the eye first is the barchetta breast pocket, immediately signalling a Neapolitan origin. The second element that announces itself is the miles upon miles of super-obvious pick stitching, which upon closer inspection, reveals a machine origin. Once upon a time when tailoring was still honest, pick stitching is supposed to be as inconspicuous as possible. It says so in every tailoring textbook. It also actually had a structural function of keeping edges crisp, or of holding pieces of cloth together. This particular pick stitching, OTOH, is purely decorative and is so loosely sewn, it has no hope of holding anything together.

 

What really bothers me about this pick stitching is that you find it even on the front dart. What purpose could it possibly play there? Indeed, it is unfortunate we need front darts to achieve shape, which is why tailors press it so flat so as to make it less obvious. Puttting in a row of that super-puckering pick stitching makes the darts draw attention to themselves.

 

zegna5.jpg

 

But notice also the severe puckering around the front of the sleevehead on both sides. It is clear the coat has been dry cleaned before, and by a second-rate dry cleaner at that.

 

zegna2-2.jpg

 

The buttonholes were machined, but I have to say they are very good imitations of hand-sewn buttonholes. The lapels are padded by machine. Everything about this jacket is machined. In the picture immediately above, you notice black and burgundy shapes in the blurry background. I shall have more to say about those.

 

They just could not let go of the pick stitching. You find more of that obnoxious stuff on the inside of the jacket. I have never seen anything more exuberantly pick stitched.

 

zegna4.jpg

 

Hah, made in Spain, eh? But why the barchetta? Here's why:

 

zegna3-2.jpg

 

Which explains everything.

 

The black and burgundy shapes belong to a very expensive jacket in the making.

 

loro-1.jpg

 

It represents the successful conclusion of a salesman's salesmanship, and it is an embodiment of somebody's dream of elegance. Both the cloth and the lining is Loro Piana. Unfortunately, it is black, and it is fused.

 

 

 

Zegna did all the mtm trousers on Spain Barcelona, recently one factory is closed , I talked yesterday with the Burberry tailors who were in Zaragoza, Spain and closed as well.

 

I hate Zegna and all the milanese brands, overpriced,

huge armoured styled. I met on a trunkshow one of their travelling master tailors and he know about tailoring the same I know about travelling to Jupiter... As I read once on America, expend 1% on the product, no matter is good or not and 99% on marketing and voila, you get a great success.

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I went to ALT yesterday to tailor made suit, use in AL fabric "mix wool". He quote me 1500 + 50 horn button. Is that expensive? mix wool fabric.

 

What was the wool mixed with?Polyester? If yes, you got yourself a crappy deal. If it was mohair, then its standard Ah Loke prices.For a bit more, I could have given you H.Lesser or a very nice super 130's.

 

If you added a bit more, I could have given you a Zegna Trofeo cloth that I just found in my stash.

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