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The suiting thread


kotmj
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Thanks kotmj! Forgot about the washability factor. I'll definitely go for linen then. Though I'd presume it'll have to be made according to the specifications kotmj suggested to tdgeno.

 

Anyone know if Ah Loke is willing to do self-lined jackets with little to no shoulder padding? My previous tailor argued that the lack of lining would make constructing the jacket difficult (though he could have been referring to the fusible interfacing, he uses "lining" to refer to both). My current one seems slightly more promising though.

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No, they are no longer for sale. They are pictures that an SF member called whoopee posted. He was active from 2005-2008 and made only very infrequent appearances after that. When I was a student he was my hero. I notice that all his WAYWT pics seemed to be wiped out after the SF migration. What a loss.

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ALT Special.

 

Appreciate if the kerbaus here (especially the sifu) will deem it appropriate to critique this SB2BPL suit that AL made for me in exactly 10 days from measurement. I posted the fitting pictures in LW, but was told the fitting advice action was here :)

 

The photos were unposed and showed the suit in action.

390778_117650128347578_100003077758270_111753_1005605688_n.jpg

Which one is the ALT rush job?

 

withmax.jpg

 

303156_10150383127943019_712423018_8413987_1350539105_n.jpg

 

AL used this trick I found in GQ: http://www.gq.com/st...uare-safety-pin

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The peak lapels seems pretty ok actually on you, though the is a lot of flaring at the bottom if your pants.reminds me of bell bottoms.I can't really see but the sleeves are a bit messy.But then again, maybe it's because of your pose.I just find something terribly wrong with your pants, to much access cloth which makes it look very messy.

 

Your pocket square is jutting out too much actually, should be pushed in a bit.

 

Looking back at the others in the picture, your suit has the best cut among all of them.If you had gone for navy or grey, you would have really stood out.

 

And if I may add, looking at the picture, you are one big timer dude.

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@kotmj fantastic fit on the pants.

 

@emma Coat looks pretty good. Shoulders and chest looks clean, good sleeve length. Maybe quarters could be slightly more closed or trouser rise higher to eliminate the triangle of shirt peeking through at the belly?

 

Maybe coat length could be increased by a hair as well. Looks a little bit on the short side now, but that could be due to the trousers sitting slightly too low?

 

As other kerbaus said, trousers would be greatly improved with a taper and a slimmer leg through the thigh. The length actually looks about right.

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thanks for the feedback guys.

 

@terror: bigtime? no la! kerje gomen je

 

pants length was my bad idea. AL to his credit wanted it shorter, i listened to the Mrs instead. i know, i know...

 

I still dont like the right arm, looks like AL didnt resolve it from the fitting, where we already noticed it. can this be fixed by taking it back to him?

 

also whats the recommendation on altering the pants? should i take it back in?

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You can slim down the pants.For the length, I know it's not everyones cup of tea but the length of your pants should just hit/ touch your shoes (and I don't mean the heels!).For reference, look at kotmj's picture.Your pants will look much better once shortened and tapered.

 

And yes, I agree with joonian, you could wear your pants higher. As with regards to the sleeves, give AL a call to ask whether he can fix it.

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I still dont like the right arm, looks like AL didnt resolve it from the fitting, where we already noticed it. can this be fixed by taking it back to him?

 

also whats the recommendation on altering the pants? should i take it back in?

 

What's wrong with the right arm? It looks alright to me. Do you think it is excessively wrinkled or the cloth pools too much?

 

As for trousers, definitely take it back to him. He should be able to taper it from slightly above the knee downwards. I believe the SF-approved leg opening is typically a very narrow 14-15". That looks best with the accompanying SF-approved 2" cuff of course :P

 

But no harm in going slightly roomier. I think the length might be alright, it's just that the wideness of the leg is contributing to the perception of it being too long.

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I have a question about coat collars.

 

I've collected my Iris commission, and I noticed that the collar looks wrinkled, like there is excess fabric. I don't notice this on any of my other off the rack or made to measure coats. Should I be concerned? Is there a way to remove the wrinkles?

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quick question guys.. looking at dugdale's new fine worsted vs their luxury lightweights

 

Worsted:

Weight

- Grams = 280-310 Oz = 8-19

 

Luxury Lightweights

Weight

- Grams = 250-280, Oz = 8-9

 

would the worsted be too heavy for our climate? i don't understand the 8-19g is it a typo? I really like the 8958 in light grey

 

8958.png

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